A paradise on earth
Ilha Grande is one of the only destinations in the world that I never tire of visiting. What's more, Ilha Grande is really huge and you can't see everything in just one visit. Every trip, a surprise in its 192 square kilometers of extreme beauty divided into 106 beaches, mountains and waterfalls.
Paraty and Ilha Grande receive title of
Unesco World Heritage Site
Ilha Grande is so special that it has just been awarded the title, along with Paraty, of UNESCO World Heritage Site. The title was awarded on Friday, July 5, 2019, by the Committee of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO), during a meeting in Baku, Azerbaijan.
In total, there are 22 Brazilian properties on the list of places of outstanding universal value.
However, Ilha Grande and Paraty go further. They were the first Brazilian property to be inscribed in the category of mixed site, i.e. cultural and natural. It covers a territory of almost 149,000 hectares, in which the historic center is surrounded by four environmental conservation areas. These include the Serra da Bocaina National Park; the Ilha Grande State Park; the Praia do Sul State Biological Reserve; and the Cairuçu Environmental Protection Area.
Its surrounding area, covering more than 407,000 hectares, has 187 islands, most of which are covered in primary vegetation, where the rich marine diversity is striking.
O he beginning of Ilha Grande and its history
Ilha Grande was inhabited by the Tupinambás and Tamoios Indians and that's where its name came from, Ipaum Guaçu, which translates as Ilha Grande.
The natives of Ilha Grande knew it like the back of their hand and it was they who laid out most of the trails that are still used today. But anyone who thinks that this paradise has always been on people's lips is mistaken. It wasn't until the 18th century that its fame began, but at first it wasn't very good.
Dutch, English and French pirates partied on Ilha Grande at that time. They supplied themselves with drinking water, firewood and fruit before heading off to Europe. I wouldn't want to be alive to see a battle between these pirates, would you?
The pirates have gone and it's the turn of the illegal slave traders. Quite something, huh? These "outlaws" knew how to choose a nice quiet place to rest.
But the party ended in 1850 when the navy took over Ilha Grande's waters and coffee and sugar plantations began to flourish along with whale fishing. However, the plantations practically ended at the beginning of the 20th century and the vegetation took over again.
O prison
In 1903, the Dois Rios prison was built for ordinary prisoners. In 1940, the prison began receiving political prisoners from the Second World War who had come from Fernando de Noronha. It then housed high-risk prisoners until it was closed down in 1994.
Can you imagine what torture it must be to pass by and see that paradise every day and not be able to enjoy it?
Lazareto
It was built in 1871 and was used as a quarantine station for immigrants and travelers until 1910.
In 1940 it was transformed into the Cândido Mendes penal colony, where it housed common prisoners until 1954, when it stopped operating. Another interesting fact about the Lazareto is that a 125-meter aqueduct was built in 1893 by Dom Pedro II to supply the Lazareto.
Ilha Grande State Park
Of course, Ilha Grande deserved better and in the 1970s it was turned into a State Park and the Praia do Sul Biological Reserve was also created. I'm glad they thought about preserving this paradise.
There are beaches for all tastes! From the busiest for surfers' paradise to the quietest for families. Crystal clear waters and colorful fish. Full of marine life, it's guaranteed fun for the whole family.
Ilha Grande is basically divided into 2 parts:
South side of the open sea with rougher waters.
The north side boasts a sheltered sea with calm, crystal-clear waters.
There is a big difference between the two. While in the north its waters are almost like emerald green pools, on the south side the waves make the party and give it a bluer color. But on both sides the water is crystal clear and mesmerizing.
How to get to Ilha Grande
There are several ways to get to Ilha Grande, but all of them include water transportation. You can't get to Ilha Grande by car. There are no bridges or any connection to the mainland, just lots and lots of liters of water between the mainland and the island.
What will change is the point of embarkation and the type of boat you'll be taking.
I'm going to tell you about all the possible ways to get to Ilha Grande.
The first thing you should see is the pier where you will embark for Ilha Grande:
Mangaratiba is the closest to Rio
Angra is the closest to São Paulo
Conceição de Jacareí is the closest to Ilha Grande
So now you have to look at the types of boat:
Fast Boat or Flex Boat → Leaves from Angra, Mangaratiba and Conceição de Jacareí. The journey takes 15 minutes from Conceição de Jacareí or 30 minutes from Angra or Mangaratiba.
We did the outward journey with the Sweet Attitude Tourism and we came back with Objetiva Tour.
On both the outward and return journeys, we opted for the flex boat, a boat made of fribra, like an inflatable dinghy.
Lifeguards are available for any emergency and the boats are clean.
It was the first time I'd been to the island on the fast track and I loved the experience.
Other modalities
Ferries → Ferries only leave from Angra and Mangaratiba and on both occasions they only take you as far as Abraão. The journey takes an average of 1 hour and 20 minutes to 1 hour and 40 minutes. It's the boat with the fewest swings and the cheapest, but it also takes the longest.
There are also catamaran and schooner options at all ports.
Having said all that, let's talk about the next step: which beach do you want to stay on?
Beaches
There's no doubt that it's almost impossible to talk about all 106 beaches on Ilha Grande, so I've chosen my favorites to feature here.
Adventurer
You may not have heard of Ilha Grande, but you've certainly seen a photo of Aventureiro Beach with its famous crooked coconut tree.
Aventureiro is in the open sea, next to the Praia do Sul Nature Reserve. It is one of the most coveted beaches and is my favorite, or rather it is in the top three along with Lopes Mendes and Palmas. The beach has a good structure with restaurants, camping sites and fishermen's houses, which rent out shared rooms and even private rooms for couples. The structure is there but it's very simple, a real invitation to the caiçara lifestyle.
But remember that to sleep on the beach you need to get permission in Angra. There is a limit of people on the beach and in high season this can be a problem.
If you don't need a permit.
Bag of Heaven
Saco do Céu is not really a beach, but a large bay with beaches, restaurants and even mansions. But the magic of the place really happens at night, when its calm waters reflect the sky, looking like a bag containing the entire starry sky.
Two Rivers
As the name suggests, the beach lies between two rivers. This beach is home to one of Ilha Grande's most famous attractions: the prison. It stopped working in 1994, but you can still visit it and even visit the museum.
There is a trail between Abraão and Dois Rios, but it's just over 10 km! Another option is to take a taxi boat.
There are restaurants on the beach, but take cash as they don't accept cards.
Meros Beach
If you're looking for a good swim with little fish, crystal clear water and calm, this is the place for you. The beach is tiny, but its size is inversely proportional to its beauty. I spent hours watching the fish with the little one and we just loved it!
There are no facilities or street vendors, so bring food and water.
Parnaioca
It's the beach that defines the meaning of whatever! Sea or river?
Both are delicious and can be enjoyed together. We dive, jump in the waves and then bathe in the refreshing, sweet waters of the lake that flows into the sea.
There are no facilities or street vendors, so bring water and food.
Caxadaço
It's a very small beach with crystal-clear waters! Surrounded by rocks, from which the more adventurous love to climb and jump. To get there safely, we took the tour with Mariana TourThe only one that stops in Caxadaço on the route back to the island.
Unfortunately, on the day we went, the visibility of the water wasn't as good as usual and we didn't see as much of it as they say.
There is no structure or peddler. Bring water and food.
Lopes Mendes
This is one of Ilha Grande's "apple of the eye" beaches and has often been one of the most beautiful beaches in the world! Its enormous expanse of white sand contrasts with the azure sea and the green of its forests.
Its waves are strong because it's on the part of the island facing the open sea, which makes surfers happy. Many of them will pass you while you're on the trail.
The transfer that takes you to Lopes Mendes stops at Pouso beach, from where you have to take another twenty to thirty minute hike.
Its rough waters must really have made the island famous, it was the only beach on the whole island that I saw lifeguards.
There are street vendors on the beach, but the prices are very high! A small water costs 5 reais. I suggest bringing water and a snack.
Saint Anthony
It's a shy beach next to Lopes Mendes, the beach looks like a miniature Lopes Mendes with the same strong waves but a lot more rocks.
Access is also via the same trail as Lopes Mendes, but there is a fork in the road. Keep an eye out for the sign, which is almost hidden. You'll spot it as soon as you start down the trail towards Lopes Mendes.
Landing
It is the starting point for the Lopes Mendes trail, where boats usually stop. The calm waters attract children for snorkeling.
We took the opportunity to take a break from Lopes Mendes so as not to miss our boat and to enjoy a quiet beach.
There is a floating restaurant on the beach.
If I go on and on, I won't stop, but you've already noticed that Ilha Grande has a thousand and one options, haven't you?
Palmas
It's a beach I love very much, it's where I camped for many years as a teenager. It's a relatively long beach with darker sands than Lopes Mendes and a very calm and pleasant emerald green sea.
There is a restaurant, camping site and hostel on the beach.
Brava
On the Palmas side, it's a more hidden treasure. Brava beach is beautiful and more deserted than its neighbor. There is also a structure, but there is only one pousada there.
It's one of my favorite beaches on Ilha Grande.
Abraham
It's the beach with the most structure in Ilha Grande, the center of town with all kinds of stores and businesses.
There's even a hospital, restaurants and everything you can imagine. Take the opportunity to buy souvenirs there.
It is also the beach that offers the most excursions and accommodation options...
But it's not just the beaches that attract attention on Ilha Grande.
Feiticeira Waterfall
Ilha Grande enchants and surprises in all sorts of ways. And if you like salt water as much as fresh water, take advantage of the trails.
Leaving Abrão, a little after 1 hour 20 minutes, you will find the Feiticeira waterfall. The great thing is that along the way you'll also find some treasures such as Poção do Aqueduto and if you want to go further, you can also go to Praia da Feiticeira, which is very pretty and just after the waterfall.
Papagaio Peak
It takes no effort to see Pico do Papagaio, the second highest peak on Ilha Grande at 982 meters. The funny thing is that it looked more like an eagle's head to me, it's beautiful to see! And it must be wonderful to see the sunrise from there.
I've seen many tours that leave Abraão at two in the morning to see this spectacle. However, I didn't venture out on the 6-hour hike with the little one.
Blue lagoon
As the name suggests, it's a lagoon right in the middle of the sea and can only be reached by boat.
The boats stop and the fish are already approaching, their bluish-green color catches the eye and the floor, which is between 3 and 4 meters deep, is clearly seen next to the transparency of the water. I would stay all day in this paradise.
Green Lagoon
This is another beautiful lagoon that can only be reached by boat. The water is shallow and very transparent, and there is a strait where you can stand and watch the fish.
The sun shines and transforms the color of the water into crystal clear green, along with lots of marine life that can be seen from afar. The Green Lagoon is a little further from Abrão.
This tour is usually combined with the Acaiá Cave. We loved the tour and had a lot of fun on the tour offered by Objetiva Tour.
Acaiá Cave
It's a cave that's on private property, so there's an extra fee of 20 reais to enter.
Acaiá means breath and its entrance lives up to its name, with a huge gale coming out of its interior.
The route into the cave isn't for everyone, first we went down a wooden staircase and then another two or three minutes through a very low and dark part! But it's all worth it in a beautiful natural aquarium with fluorescent lighting.
Tours
There are countless tours in Ilha Grande! It's almost impossible to mention them all.
So I'll just talk about the tours we did and mention a few others that caught my eye.
All the tours mentioned here leave from Abraão.
Acaiá Cave and Lagoons
We did this tour with Objetiva Tour in a speedboat, which was wonderful because the Acaiá Cave is far away and we got there very quickly!
Despite the fact that the whole route had beautiful scenery and even dolphins had appeared to us.
We enjoyed the Blue and Green Lagoons and had lunch on Crena beach.
This tour can also be done from Conceição de Jacareí.
See all the tours here from Objetiva Tour.
Lopes Mendes
Going to Lopes Mendes is delicious and can be considered a walk!
We took the schooner from Abraão and went straight to Praia de Pouso, where the trail starts.
Halfway along we passed the coast of the island and saw the clear sea, which excited us every second.
It's a delight to walk along these waters.
See all the tours here from Team Athos.
Around the Island with Mariana Tour
For me, this is the most complete tour of Ilha Grande and the one where you can get a great overview of the island. However, this tour only departs with favorable sea conditions.
It's done by speedboat. We went all the way around the island and stopped at a few beaches:
Caxadaço Beach;
Parnaioca;
Adventurer;
Mere;
Lunch in Maguariquessaba;
See all the tours here that Mariana Tour does
See other tours:
Half Island Tour
Blue Lagoon
Green Lagoon
Maguariquessaba
Love Beach
Bag of Heaven
Feiticeira Beach
Aventureiro Tour
Parnaioca Beach
Adventurer
Meros Beach
Super South
Island of Jorge Grego
Two Rivers
Caxadaço
Lopes Mendes
Where to eat in Ilha Grande
The island is huge and it all depends on where you are. We found dishes for 25 reais in several places, but remember that most of them only accept cash. Don't forget to take notes to the island.
The tours usually offer lunch, so plan for that too.
Here I'm going to talk about two restaurants that I really liked and are worth recommending.
Lua e Mar Restaurant
The restaurant is located in Abraão and has won several awards. Good music and delicious drinks are part of a typical caiçara atmosphere. I tried and abused all the delicacies I could. Whether it was the seafood platter or the fish with banana, typical caiçara food. It's hard to say which dish was better.
We sat with our feet on the sand, amidst the sound of the sea and the tuneful voice that came from the guitar.
There is also a lounge inside the restaurant, for those who don't want to stand on the sand. The walls are filled with awards and old pictures showing the changes the restaurant has undergone over the years.
Adriana is the owner of the restaurant and she welcomed us very warmly, telling us all about her family's history, which goes back to the time of her beloved father. He would gather with his friends at home after fishing and everyone would bring delicacies for his mother to cook and everything would turn into a real party.
It worked out so well that the restaurant was born, grew and today gives pride of place to the whole family.
Fish with Banana
The restaurant is just over a year old and is located in Maguariquessaba. We had lunch there at the end of a wonderful walk.
You can get there by trail from Abraão, it's not far.
We started lunch with a divine moqueca mista! I also tried the shrimp with catupiry cheese, which was delicious.
Emmanuel played on the beach opposite while we waited for our plates. It's so quiet that there weren't any waves.
Where to to stay in Ilha Grande
Ilha Grande is not a place for 5-star accommodation, the best thing about it is its simple and rustic style, immersed in nature.
Going to sleep to the sound of the sea and waking up to the birds singing is wonderful.
However, there are many types of accommodation on Ilha Grande, from campsites, fishermen's houses, hostels and inns in the most diverse categories.
Accommodation also varies greatly and there are many beaches to choose from: Abraão, Palmas, Brava, Aventureiro...
I won't go into too much detail here, I'll just mention our last accommodation, which was in Abraão.
Cantinho de Céu Inn
It's a great option for families and is perfectly located. Close to the pier and the church, where the island's festivities take place.
However, it was far enough away to get away from the noise of the night's hustle and bustle. It was perfect! As I said, the pousada is a great option for those going to Ilha Grande with children. The decoration and the garden win over the little ones and Emmanuel immediately loved it and ran to the plaster animals in the garden.
He jumped into the hammock and played for as long as we stayed at the inn.
Our room was simple, but it had everything we needed: minibar, television with children's channels and even a hairdryer! I loved all this pampering that I didn't even know existed on Ilha Grande.
We spent the evenings watching cartoons and having a great time as a family.
Breakfast surprised us too! Cheese bread, eggs, cakes, jelly and everything else. It was delicious! In the afternoon there is also a coffee and cake bar for guests. The Pousada Cantinho de Céu is cute and each room has the name of a planet, the colors of the pousada are also eye-catching, everything is too cute.
We loved our experience and I hope I helped you have a great trip too.
Rico, from the site, gave us this wonderful trip Navigate Angra and where you'll find rich itineraries and lots of valuable information about the region.
See also the other blogs that took part in this trip:
Passionate about Travel
Traveling on
See you around the world
Trails and Adventures
Travel and Other Stories
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